5 White Villages to Visit from Ronda
Ronda is the largest of Andalusia’s famous white villages. It a place that gets a lot of day trippers due to its proximity to Seville and Malaga.
But Ronda also makes for a great base to explore the region due to its proximity to some of Spain’s most beautiful towns.
In this post I cover 5 White Villages you should visit from Ronda. You can visit them by car or, if looking for an adventure, on a cycling tour. Why? Because this corner of Cadiz province is perfectly suited to be discovered by bike. More on that below.
5 White Villages to visit from Ronda
1. Setenil de las Bodegas
The History of Setenil de las Bodegas
Setenil de las Bodegas, the closest town to Ronda on this list (a 20-minute drive), is somewhat a reverse of Ronda. Whereas Ronda has precipitous views looking down a gorge, Setenil de las Bodegas is literally built into a gorge.
Many of the town’s dwellings are carved into the rock using the overhangs as roofs. It’s one of the most unusual things you’ll see in Spain and one of the reasons Setenil de las Bodegas is one of the most popular white villages among tourists.
Humans are estimated to have lived in Setenil for over 25000 years but much of the history is uncertain. What we do know is that Romans occupied the area from around the 1st century AD, followed by the Moors in 8th century. The Catholics kings conquered the town in the 15th century. The name ‘Setenil’ comes from the Reconquista period and stems from the Latin ‘Septem Nihil’ which means Seven Nil, in reference to the seven failed attempts to take the town from Moorish hands.
The ‘de las Bodegas’ part of its name refers to the thriving wine production of the area which was unfortunately wiped out by the Phylloxera, a pest that devastated European wine production in the 19th century. Although wine production was wiped out, it has started to see a recent revival in the region.
Getting to Setenil de las Bodegas
There are two routes you can take from Ronda, one via the town of Arriate and the other via the Roman ruins of Acinipo. Acinipo offers a great chance to learn about the history of the area and is free to enter (open 9am to 1.45pm Wednesday to Sunday). I would recommend taking this route to Setenil, returning via the town of Arriate.
When you arrive in Setenil de las Bodegas by car, it is important to know you cannot drive through its internal streets – they’re only accessible to residents and those with a legitimate reasons such as delivery vehicles and the police. There is public parking available on the outskirts of town but the parking garage ‘Parking Los Caños’ is recommended.
Alternatively, you can cycle to Setenil de las Bodegas with White Village Tours as they have a selection of routes that visit or pass through Setenil.
What to See and Do in Setenil de las Bodegas
From the parking I mention above, your first stop should be to visit the 12th century castle ‘Castillo de Setenil de las Bodegas’ which sits at the highest point of town and is located near the tourist office and ‘Church of Our Lady Incarnation’.
Next in line should be visiting a cave house. Some restaurants and shops showcase great examples of what the cave houses look and feel like… but in my opinion you should visit ‘Cueva Alta’ (meaning high cave). It’s a small shop/bar up the hill a little, it takes you away from the hustle and bustle of the center whilst giving you a charming example of inside a cave house, including its very own wishing well.
The roads Calle Cuevas del Sol and Calle Cuevas del la Sombra run parallel to each other, in the centre of the town and are connected by two bridges over the river Trejo. They’re the most photographed streets in town due to the density of cave dwellings and the dramatic overhang of rock over the streets. Calle Cuevas del la Sombra for example has rock covering the whole road like a tunnel and you will find restaurants, shops and houses underneath.
Heading back to higher ground, this time on the other side of the gorge, will take you to Mirador del Carmen. There you’ll get wonderful views of the Nazari tower and the Church of the Incarnation.
2. Olvera
The History of Olvera
Olvera is a town that oozes the essence of Spain with its picturesque rolling hills of olive groves and one of the region’s most dramatic castles.
The town’s strategic location appealed to the Moors. In the 12th century, with Christian forces aggressively making their way down the peninsula, they built a castle here that was part of a larger defensive system in the region.
The Christians eventually conquered the town in the 13th century. The history and landmarks laid by these two kingdoms are clear to see when entering the town from most roads, where the Arab Castle and the imposing 19th century Church Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación sit at the highest point in town.
Getting to Olvera (and cycling options)
Olvera is usually combined with a visit to Setenil de las Bodegas. As mentioned, Setenil de las Bodegas is about 20 minutes from Ronda. Continue for another 25 minutes in the same northerly direction and you’ll get to Olvera.
Olvera’s location and relationship with the countryside has also granted it the title of ‘Capital de Turismo Rural’ (Rural Tourism Capital). Olvera sits at the end of the Vía Verde de las Sierra, an old railway turned cycle route that weaves peacefully through the local landscape. A day visiting Olvera and cycling the Via Verde is a great experience. From Olvera, the route takes you along the old railway line, gradually descending for 36km. You’ll pass antique train stations, some of which have been repurposed as restaurants, hotels and even a nature reserve housing griffon vultures.
What to See and Do in Olvera
The Arab castle (Castillo Árabe de Olvera) is the highlight in town. You’ll climb some steep steps to find yourself seemingly at the top of the world. The views of the landscapes and the town below are stunning. Back down at the tourist office, the city museum provides a detailed insight into the occupation of the Moors.
Next to the castle you will find a large plaza and the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación, both of which overlook the town and the olive groves that surround it. The church of Neo-Classical design with its majestic interior are worth seeing.
Take a walk through town, the town’s website provides routes to other highlights in Olvera (don´t miss the Peñon del Sagrado Corazón – great views from here).
3. Grazalema
The History of Grazalema
To the west of Ronda you will find the stunning Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park, which gets its name from the town that sits tucked away in the middle. Grazalema, like Setenil de las Bodegas, is officially recognised as one of Spain’s most beautiful towns (‘Pueblos más bonitos de España’). Nestled between the rugged mountains of the Natural Park, Grazalema looks just as beautiful from the outside as it does from within.
With a history dating back to the Romans, its history is mostly influenced by the Moors. That’s evident in its narrow winding streets and selection of small plazas dotted about town. It’s not a big town, so getting lost among the streets is a positive experience where you will find yourself among charming alleys filled with flowers and white washed houses.
Getting to Grazalema (with cycling options)
Grazalema is a 40-minute drive west of Ronda, in the same direction as Zahara de la Sierra (to be covered soon). Try to park at Parking ‘El Mirador’ where you will be spoilt with stunning landscape views. It’s close to the center of town (near the tourist office) and you’ll see large endangered Spanish fir trees called Pinsapos.
One of the great cycling adventures in the region is this tour that starts in Grazalema, goes to Zahara de la Sierra, and then follows the lake before making its way to Ronda. A challenging ride with stunning geography.
What to See and Do in Grazalema
The countryside and in particular sheep, play an important role in Grazalema history. Its famous textile industry produces Mantas de Grazalema, a traditional woollen blanket that is still the pride of the town today. A visit to the Museo de Artesanía Textil is recommended, offering an insight to the traditional techniques which are still used to this day.
Alongside the sheep, a local breed of goat called a Payoya are farmed for cheese production. Grazalema, alongside the small town of Villaluenga del Rosario, is home to the Payoyo brand of cheese. Famous throughout Spain and internationally for producing some of the best, award-winning goats cheese.
Grazalema’s history with food has resulted in some exciting restaurants that specialise in using local produce and traditional recipes: alongside the cheese that’s produced in the area you’ll see hunted meat such as wild boar and venison on menus.
When visiting Grazalema, it is worth investigating if there are any local festivities going on. The town has a reputation for parties and events, from historical reenactments to running of the bulls, where a unique technique called La Maroma is used to control the bull by ropes.
Visit Plaza de España. A pretty plaza with small restaurants, shops and the Lady of the Aurora, a charming church built on a Moorish palace and has been rebuilt multiple times due to war. Grazalema itself has quite a few churches and religious points of interest that can be found dotted about town.
4. Zahara de la Sierra
The History of Zahara de la Sierra
As you approach Zahara de la Sierra from any road into town you will start to see why it has also been selected as one of Spain’s most beautiful towns. Above a whitewashed town, sitting atop cliffs, is one of the most precariously placed fortresses in Spain. Just like the fortress built in Olvera, this 13th century structure was built by the Moors on a rocky strategic location and became an important part of the Moorish defence network during the Reconquista.
Getting to Zahara de la Sierra from Grazalema (with cycling options)
Grazalema and Zahara de las Sierra should be combined into a day trip. It is highly recommended: there’s a high road between the two towns which really highlights the natural beauty of the area. This mountain road, which is paved and popular among road cyclists, has a car park and a spectacular viewpoint called ‘Puerto de las Palomas’ that overlooks Grazalema Natural Park. If driving, it takes 30 minutes between Grazalema and Zahara de las Sierra.
Alternatively, White Village Tours offer a variety of cycling experiences through this spectacular mountain road. The road has many viewpoints along the way and cycling it is the best way to enjoy it.
Either way you do it, the high road brings you into Zahara de la Sierra at the top of town which is the easiest part to find parking.
What to See and Do in Zahara de la Sierra
The highlight of a visit to Zahara de la Sierra is the hike up to the fortress. Lots of great views, an interpretation center where you can read up on the history of the town, and then a final ascent to the fortress. There’s nothing left of the fortress but a tower – but the 360 views from up top are incredible. On one side lies the town and the reservoir, on the other the mountains of the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park.
Plaza del Rey itself could be considered the main hub of the village as it is where you will find the Iglesia de Santa María de la Mesa, a beautiful 17th century church with baroque architecture and a striking bell tower. Alongside the church you will find the tourist office and the Mirador de Plaza del Rey, with views over the reservoir and as far as the town of Olvera.
From Mirador de Plaza del Rey, you will find access to the Pinsapo nature walk. The Abies Pinsapo (known in English as the Spanish Fir), is the symbolic tree of Andalusia, a protected species that can only be found in a few locations in Andalucia. This small group of Pinsapos is currently the only selection to be found inside a town, as the majority are found in the Sierra de las Nieves National Park, south of Ronda.
From the Plaza del Rey, you will also find the pedestrianised street Calle San Juan. Although short, this street houses a few of Zahara’s popular restaurants and cafes so it always has life. At the other end of the street you will find another small plaza and church and access to some of the lower streets of the town which are worth exploring for their beauty and traditional charm.
In the summer months, when the days are hot, it’s worth visiting the town centre during the late afternoon evening and spending the day at the town’s man-made reservoir. Called the Playita de Zahara, it is located a short drive from the town and consists of a large swimming area, natural shade from trees, a large grass area to eat and relax, a restaurant, cafe and even a zipline across the water.
5. Vejer de la Frontera
So far all the towns we have covered are within a 1 hour drive from Ronda, which is a perfectly reasonable distance. But for anyone willing to explore further afield, I have to recommend Vejer de la Frontera.
Vejer de la Frontera, located on the Atlantic coast, offers something a little different. Like the others it is considered one of Spain’s most beautiful towns, it has a colourful and interesting history and is full of charm. But it also has something a little extra, something hard to explain. It has a holistic, laidback-type vibe, exceptional cuisine, small boutiques, historical landmarks, a proximity to the coast and everything you can think of that makes a white village a white village. It is special.
Getting to Vejer de la Frontera
The quickest and easiest way to Vejer from Ronda is the northernly route that takes you past Zahara de la Sierra towards Jerez de la Frontera. From there continue south along the coast until you get to Vejer de la Frontera. The trip will take you about 2 hours.
The town is split into two areas, the New town and the Old town. As you approach the town by car, aim for the tourist office as this is located next to the biggest car park in Vejer and the most accessible.
What to See and Do in Vejer de la Frontera
As you can expect the history lies in the Old town and is perfect for getting lost among the streets, where charming houses meet fortifications and businesses lie beneath historic landmarks.
Once you arrive in Vejer de la Frontera, I would recommend heading to the Plaza de España. One of the prettiest plazas in Spain, its beautiful fountain and lively atmosphere always make it a pleasurable spot to start your visit. From here, take a short walk to the town’s 11th century castle Castillo de Vejer, which offers great views of the surrounding La Janda landscape and is a great example of Moorish military architecture. Much of the structure has been preserved since it was conquered in the 13th century.
The Mirador de La Cobijada should be considered next on your list, a short walk from the castle, this viewpoint offers a picturesque view of the town alongside a statue of a woman wearing a Cobijada. La Cobijada is a traditional dress of Vejer de la Frontera and the statue gives the impression it was influenced by traditional Islamic clothing (it actually has no relation).
Next to the Mirador de La Cobijada you will also find the Puerta Cerrada, a very well-preserved gate into town along the old fortifications. Here you can walk inside the walls towards some of Vejer’s churches: Iglesia Convento de Nuestra Señora de la Concepción and Iglesia Divino Salvador.
Vejer de la Frontera has a reputation for being a town of high gastronomic quality and there is an endless list of restaurants to be recommended. But one special location is Mercado San Francisco, a food market offering a selection of bars and eateries highlighting the local specialities such as cured meat, fried fish and seafood allowing you to mix and match tastes to eat in the communal seating areas. If you want something a little more formal, head to Paseo de la Cantera, a pleasant walkway with amazing views from Vejer’s hilltop location, and lined with great restaurants that never disappoint.
This post has been contributed by Lee Clark at White Village Tours. If you’re looking for a cycling adventure in the Ronda area, contact him.
Related: A Do-It-Yourself walking tour of Ronda
Related: Why you should visit Zahara de la Sierra
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