Is Setenil de las Bodegas overrated?
Setenil de las Bodegas is a popular town, known for the buildings built under the rocks of the canyon lying above it. We visited the town as part of a day trip that included 2 other Pueblos Blancos: Zahara de la Sierre and Olvera (both of which are close by).
Of the 3 towns, Setenil de la Bodegas is easily the most touristed. We were visiting on a weekday in April and couldn’t get over all the people in town. Walking around, after having visited the other two towns, we reflected on what we were seeing and wondered “Is Setenil de la Bodegas overrated? Does it really warrant being this popular?”
I’ll get to that.
You’ve probably seen the photos below elsewhere.
There are two main streets, Calle Cuevas del Sol (Caves of the Sun) and Calle Cuevas de la Sombra (Caves of the shade). These two streets are what you see in all the photos and what draws most visitors to visit Setenil de las Bodegas.
But the town has many more homes built into the rocks. Unlike other Pueblos Blancos that were usually built on the pinnacles of hills or bluffs, Setenil de las Bodegas grew from the network of caves along the Trejo river. It is thought that human habitation here might date back about 25,000 years. You’ll see it everywhere along the river, houses built between “folds” in the rock. The facades are those of ordinary homes but inside the rock are the ceilings and walls of the buildings. A bit further up from Calles Cuevas del Sol you’ll see Calle Jabonería which is a good example of that. Another great spot to get an overview of cave houses is going through the large gate that leads from Plaza de Andalusia to Calle Cjón on the other side. There you’ll see a set of stairs and views of the cave houses along the river (you get the same view from Mirador de la Villa but it just seemed more impressive from this spot).
Walk along Calle Herreria, a narrow and steep little pedestrian street skirting large rocks. Some of the rocks jut out, blocking the sunlight from the street underneath. It’s the oldest street in Setenil de las Bodegas.
At the top of the town you’ll see a tower. It’s the Nazari Tower, the only remains of a Moorish fortress that stood here. It’s next to a large church, the Church of the Incarnation (which was closed). Steps away is the Parroquia Setenil de las Bodegas which is next to the Mirador de la Villa.
A few more photos from around town:
If you can, stop at the Mirador Balcón De Setenil de las Bodegas when driving into town. Great views.
But really, the reason people come to Setenil de las Bodegas is to walk around Calle Cuevas del Sol and Calle Cuevas de la Sombra and to then stop for a drink and a meal at one of the many restaurants. Few wander further.
Video below: the loop around Calle Cuevas del Sol and Calle Cuevas de la Sombra
So is Setenil de las Bodegas overrated?
I’ll be honest: after Zahara de la Sierre and Olvera, we didn’t fall in love with Setenil de las Bodegas. Yes, the homes built within the rock are impressive. But we didn’t find the town that pretty or well-kept and we were surprised by aggressive drivers on Calle Cuevas de la Sombra (you would think it would be closed off to traffic). And we couldn’t believe the number of tourists, many of them being tour groups coming from nearby Ronda.
Setenil de las Bodegas just wasn’t our favorite of Andalusia’s Pueblos Blancos*.
*That’s just our opinion. You may feel totally different about it.
For more information on Setenil de las Bodegas: The official tourism website. Click on that and it’ll tell you what to see when in town and gives you a tourist map.
Related: Why you should visit Zahara de la Sierra
Related: A visit to Olvera
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