A visit to Olvera (Cádiz).
This is another of Andalusia’s pretty Pueblos Blancos.
Rich in history, it’s been settled by the Phoenicians, Romans (the first recorded history of Olvera was in the 1st century AD when the Romans referred to the town as Hippa Nova), Visigoths and Moors. During the Moorish period it was part of the Emirate of Granada (also known as the Nasrid Kingdom of Granada). At that time, they built a fortress on the highest promontory of the town: it was part of a larger defensive system and was used as a signal station where fortresses would flash lights to other stations down the line to warn of attack. Today, Olvera Castle is known as one of the most spectacular castles in Cádiz province.
Map of the town (click to enlarge)
A short video giving you an overview of Olvera
Highlights of Olvera
Castle of Olvera
The castle is the highlight of the town. It’s an impressive fortress built on a steep escarpment. When you look at it, you wonder how they could have possibly built it.
Buy your ticket at the tourist office (number 1 on the map). That should cost 2 Euros/pp. the ticket also give you access to the town museum which is in the same building. I’ll write more on that below. But for now take your ticket and walk across the square to the entrance that leads to the castle.
The castle requires you walking quite a few steps and is quite steep. The views keep getting better and better. Then you step though the gate to the castle and it all opens up. There are ramparts you can climb. You get wonderful 360 views of the town and countryside.
There’s not very much to the castle but to walk around and to look at the views. That in itself – and seeing how the castle was built on this piece of rock – is very impressive.
The Church of Nuestra Señora de la Encarnacion
It’s the other symbol of Olvera. On Plaza de la Iglesia (where you also see the Olvera sign) is this large church which was completed in 1843. It’s 2 Euros to enter and I had read reviews saying that “it wasn’t worth it”. But it’s impressive from the outside and the views from the front of the church over town are great.
La Frontera and Los Castillos Museum
Back at the tourist office is the museum that explains the castle and talk about the town’s history. There’s a LOT of reading if you’re interested. We unfortunately were pressed for time (we were also visiting Zahara de la Sierra and Sentenil de las Bodegas that day).
But it is well done and informative and I would recommend it if you want to know about the town’s history. And as I say, it’s included in your 2 Euro ticket to the castle.
Cemetery
The Cementerio Parroquial de Olvera is also worth a quick look. It dates back to the 1500’s and was meant for those that couldn’t afford to be buried in the vaults under the church. It’s a pretty spot, the tombs are well-kept and decorated. There are some great views of the castle above. Free.
The above covers the main highlights of the upper town. From here go down Calle Calzada (a pedestrian street with steps). It will bring you to Calle Llano which is the main street going through the old town. But before you go down, go through the arched gateway that you see on the video. It will take you to Plaza Ayuntamiento. You’ll find the town hall on the square, there’s great views of the church and the castle, and there’s a popular tapas bar there as well. A great spot – with nice views – to have a beer.
Go down Calle Llano in the direction of Peñon del Sagrado Corazón (number 9 on the map). It’s a pretty street and you’ll get to a plaza with a hill and trees/flowers. That’s Peñon del Sagrado Corazón. It is basically a large garden with flowers, fountains and pools of water. Go up the paths, they all lead to the Monumento al Sagrado Corazón, Olvera’s version of Rio’s Christ the Redeemer statue. Great views of town from here.
The above are the main highlights of Olvera. Overall a very pretty town with an incredibly impressive castle.
How to get to Olvera: It’s very hard to get here by public transport. Alsa and Damas come here but have a very light schedule (Alsa once a day. Damas 5 times/week). If you’re going to come here you really have to have your own wheels.
Note: make sure to read my post on Zahara de la Sierra below. It’s just 30 minutes from Olvera and is a required visit. I’ll also be writing about Setenil de las Bodegas shortly (which is hugely popular…and overrated in my opinion).
Related: Why you should visit Zahara de la Sierra
Related: A Do-It-Yourself walking tour of Antequera
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