Visiting Arcos de la Frontera

The White Village of Arcos de la Frontera.

Arcos de la Frontera was always a strategic stronghold, built on a rock overlooking the Guadalete river and valley. The Romans and Moors had fortresses here, in fact Medina Ar-kosch (as Arcos de la Frontera was called under Islamic rule) was part of the boundary between Moors and Catholics. That heavily-fortified boundary included towns such of Zahara de la Sierra, Olvera and Setenil de las Bodegas. Today these are some of Cadiz province’s beautiful “White Villages”. And Arcos de la Frontera, the easternmost of these villages, is considered the gateway to these White Villages.

Note: Arcos is easy to get to by public transport, unlike many of the other white villages. In our case we took a bus from Jerez de la Frontera, 40 minutes away. I’ll detail how to get there at the bottom of this post.

What to See in Arcos de la Frontera

Arcos de la Frontera has some impressive historical highlights but the main reason to come here is to appreciate the incredible geographic location and the views from the many viewpoints in Arcos’ historical center.

Tourist Office

When you walk from the modern town of Arcos (uphill all the way), you’ll know you’re nearing the historic center when you come to the Tourist Office. VERY friendly personnel, they’ll happily give you a tourist map similar to the one below. They also have a rooftop viewpoint which I’m told has great views (Lissette was waiting for me outside so I didn’t go up).

A few minutes further you get to Plaza del Cabildo and the Basilica …

The Basílica de Santa María de la Asunción

A very impressive church dating back to the 15^th century when (like most Spanish churches) it was built over the remains of a Moorish mosque. It is constructed in a mix of styles, Renaissance dominating the exterior and Gothic the interior.

You wouldn’t expect such a beautiful church in a small town and we were surprised by the beauty of its interior. You wouldn’t think it from the exterior: it looks disproportionate, the belltower oversized for the rest of the building. And it is a shame that the square in front of it (Plaza del Cabildo) is an ugly parking lot.

Besides the beauty of the interior, the views from the bell tower are phenomenal and it’s really worth a hike up all those stairs.

Bell tower views – that’s the Iglesia de San Pedro on the other side of town

Cost: again, a pleasant surprise. 2 Euros to see the Basilica, 4 Euros for both the Basilica and the bell tower. That’s less expensive than most churches in Spain and you get good value for your money.

Around Plaza del Cabildo

I’ve mentioned the main square where you’ll find the Basilica. There are a few other highlights that you may or may not want to see.

Castillo Ducal de Arcos de la Frontera. Now a private castle and unfortunately you can’t visit it. And the best views you’ll get are from the bell tower of the Basilica. But when you go to the City Hall building (Ayuntamiento), you’ll see an arch with a passage. Going up that passage will take you up a ramp where you can see the Castle doors and walls.

Ayuntamiento. The City Hall building has some exhibits worth visiting (free) and has great views over the square and countryside. You’ll also find bathrooms here.

Parador of Arcos de la Frontera. Across from the Ayuntamiento is the Parador de Arcos de la Frontera. Previous to going I had read that it was worth coming here for drinks and great views…but in all honesty we found the Parador to be one of the saddest Paradors that we’ve visited. There are views all over Arcos and coming here for an overpriced coffee is not worth it in my opinion.
The square also has a mirador, the Mirador Plaza del Cabildo. Unfortunately under construction/renovation when we visited.

Convento de la Encarnación

Now a convent but previously a hospital. Built in the 15^th century. You can’t help but see it when walking a bit further into the old town – one of Arcos’s most beautiful buildings.

Palacio del Mayorazgo

A 17th century palace that houses the Municipal Department of Culture. You can walk in for free and enjoy various exhibits, courtyards, an art gallery, a library, gardens…and a rooftop mirador with views over the countryside and the Iglesia de San Pedro which is right next door. Very much worth the visit in my opinion.

Iglesia de San Pedro

The church of San Pedro is right next to the above-mentioned Palacio del Mayorazgo, a 16^th century church. It wasn’t open when we were there. Entry cost 2 Euros.

Mirador de Abades

You’ve reached the end of the old town, from here the streets go steeply downhill. But the views here are fantastic and I’m told even better around sunset time.

Really, Arcos de la Frontera isn’t a big place and the thing to do is wander the streets and alleys enjoying the views and the architecture. It won’t take long, Arcos can be visited in 2 to 3 hours (even if loitering in the Ayuntamiento and the Palacio del Mayorazgo as we did).

Some more photos

Practical Information

Bus. If coming by public transport the best way is to take the bus from Jerez de la Frontera. It’ll take you about 40 minutes to get to Arcos. See the schedule for bus M-951 here. Bus M-953 also does the route several times per day. Between the two routes there are regular buses between Jerez and Arcos (important to note: the bus station in Jerez de la Frontera is right next to the train station. So if coming from Cadiz or El Puerto de Santa Maria by train you’re a minute’s walk from the bus station. Note: the bus station is about 20 minutes walk from the old town.
Accommodation. You could stay in the Parador de Arcos de Frontera (well rated). But I’d recommend Casa Campana for a cosy experience at better prices.